1/31/15
Day 15
This whole weekend was supposed to rain but today as we headed out at 7:20, it just seemed a little cloudy and sprinkled every now and then throughout the day, but it also had its sunny moments. We first stopped to snag our free breakfast of a pastry and espresso (it came with our hostel) and then headed off to make our appointments at the Vatican, which we'd so proactively booked online the night before. Apparently it's a really long walk so everyone just takes the bus but we're too dumb for that and didn't want to risk getting lost and missing it, so we took the scenic route. When we got to the entrance for the Vatican museums, our 4€ booking fee (1€ per person in our group of 4) skipped the entire line! Also FYI, you don't need your passport to enter Vatican City. Our hostel manager had told us about where to go and how to do it quickly and cheaply and this was one of his secret tricks.We enjoyed as much of the museums as we had time for, and especially made time to see the Sistine Chapel. It was kind of surreal and I haven't really processed it yet. We saw one pair of older ladies that were struggling to walk down the stairs to go in and I couldn't help but wonder if they'd waited their whole lives for this moment. When people talk about things that matter, like in Good Will Hunting, it usually goes something like this: "Michelangelo, you know a lot about him. Life's work, political aspirations, him and the pope, sexual orientations, the whole works, right? But I'll bet you can't tell me what it smells like in the Sistine Chapel. You've never actually stood there." And even though, in the moment, I could feel the significance of standing there in person and being able to touch the walls and notice the paint chips in various Caravaggio's, I don't know if I'll ever be able to fully appreciate the experience.
Unfortunately, we finished up and then tried to continue through to St. Peter's Basilica but you could only get through with a tour. Otherwise, we'd have to wait in the line that had already snaked around to the other side of the pillars. We hadn't seen anything else yet and my friends decided they didn't care, plus we were all dying of hunger.
We wandered along the path our hostel owner had laid out for us, and first stopped by Castel Sant'Angelo, then wandered toward Piazza Navona. It really sucks because the Trevi is apparently undergoing renovation and that alone was the reason I really felt the need to come back to Italy. Similarly, the Baptistery near the Duomo in Florence is also under renovation. But, I was surprised by how cool the Navona fountain was when I've never heard of it before. The next stopping point on our journey was the Pantheon and although we caught it on a cloudy day so the light didn't stream in, it was still an awe-inspiring moment. My friend looked it up and found that it's the biggest concrete dome in the world. You feel tiny and useless standing inside it but the milling crowds of other tourists trying to check this off on their list remind you of the din of humanity and that you should watch out for pickpockets.And then we, like all the other tourists, went on our merry way to the next attraction- which just so happened to be the Piazza del Populo. (I think at some point we drastically veered off the suggested path so this is probably a stupid order to explore the city in)
In the Piazza del Populo, a guy in a superman costume and some of his friends were blowing huge bubbles. It was a wide open circle framed by a few interesting buildings and a monument in the center. I probably should have googled more to figure out why the thing with hieroglyphics was important but I was busy trying to accurately capture it with pictures to remember it by. I want to savor the moment later when I can adequately research it and understand what everything is. In the heat of the moment, I was with a bunch of ADD college kids who wanted to keep moving and who knows when I'll be back to take these pictures again. Priorities.
Anyway, we then climbed up the stairs from the piazza and ended up on a balcony overlooking the city. It was nice because I was still a little salty over missing St. Peter's Basilica. It was a beautiful moment: the sun was out and I was just meeting a lot of the people in our group for the first time and I ended up really liking them. We walked along the edge of the cliff and tried to find the Spanish steps. We did but only made it to the top of them before we got distracted on our hunt for the Museum and Crypt of Capuchins which we'd heard was supposed to be cool and not overrun with tourists. You can't take pictures but that makes sense because a picture couldn't capture the atmosphere. The only way to experience it is here in Rome in person. When we got underground, we were silent except for the occasional nervous whisper. The temperature dropped noticeably. It also had the smell of a basement and dust and history. The capuchins arranged the bones of their dead in strange, beautiful, intricate patterns. They are both meaningless (like the flowers on the ceiling) and cryptically significant (like the shoulder blades arranged to look like wings to show that time doesn't just pass, it flies). Each room has a plaque to explain its display and one of the quotes stood out: "What you are now we used to be; what we are now you will be..." As we emerged, we couldn't help but discuss the experience and be slightly disturbed by the thought of someone taking the time to pick apart bodies to decorate with. But most of all, that quote lingered in my mind and haunted me for the rest of the day. The internet labeled it the "spookiest place in Rome" and I would have to agree. I bought postcards since I couldn't take pictures- here's what a few of the rooms looked like
We then walked back to the Spanish steps to see them from the right angle- which was kind of underwhelming honestly. As far as I could tell, there were just way too many tourists in one tiny area, attracting the selfie stick and umbrella sellers for really no reason at all.
It had been a long day of walking by the time we left the steps. I think we'd walked 15 miles and had been up since 7am and everyone had started complaining. It was time for a break. We stopped in Zara on the way to my friends' hotel though. I'd heard good things, but I'd never gone instead. Again, I don't really get it. Everything seemed too professional or something, but it's entirely possible that I was just too tired to care. As soon as we got inside the hotel, we all crashed from our adventures.
It's annoying when you're traveling because food is expensive but you always seem to be hungry! We found the nearest place that looked good and pounced on our prey. Obviously, we didn't stop there though. Next, we went to investigate the nightlife in another part of the city. And even though I think I prefer Florence to Rome, it definitely has Florence beat in terms of what to do at night. In other areas though, I was less than impressed with Rome. Maybe this was because I'd built it up so much in my imagination from growing up with stories about it. But I definitely expected more history and less New York City. Most of the streets and sidewalks in Florence are barely one lane and made of cobblestone. I guess Rome had its fair share of cobblestones but the main roads and sidewalks are paved. They have multiple lanes and basically look like mini highways through the city center. This is understandable because Rome is a huge city and can't stay stuck in the past forever but it seems weird to have the juxtaposition of ancient and modern back to back like they've set it up. I expect to feel like I'm abroad when I'm abroad and what I love about Florence is how it has maintained its medieval charm, despite pressure to modernize, whereas I think Rome has reinvented itself as a 21st century city.
As we wandered towards the bar, we saw the streets in Rome that were cute during the day come alive with bars and pleasantly drunk Italians at night. Even the architecture seemed more traditionally Rome-y on these back streets, lined with bars and restaurants and people chattering in Italian and generally enjoying themselves. This is what I had envisioned in Rome and the tourist trap during the day looked nothing like it. Most importantly, we ended the night with chocolate shots! Apparently this is a shot glass made of chocolate, filled with alcohol (we chose rum), and topped with whipped cream. I definitely ate mine wrong so it was disgusting while I ate it but it was amazing how the chocolate completely erased the aftertaste.
It was a day well spent. Probably one of the best of my life, since I accomplished everything I set out to do (I'm usually way too ambitious)- and a lot of it was life goals, like seeing the Sistine Chapel and the Pantheon. The only negative was the sad realization that, despite all the value I place in them, sometimes pictures fail. A picture couldn't capture the details of the Sistine chapel (I tried- illegally). It also couldn't fully explain the length of the gold hall right before it or the height of the dome of the Pantheon or give the feeling of standing on top of the world and looking down at the city and the tiny moving people. For some things, when space and smell and atmosphere matter, a picture is not enough. That's what validates travel in the 21st century. You could look up images of the Capuchin crypt and Sistine Chapel and you might see what it looks like but you won't know what it feels like to be there. You can't feel the space by looking at a 2 dimensional picture, even a panorama.


























































